How to Achieve that Basic Smoky Eye by Makeup Artist, Jenny Karl

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As a working makeup artist in Los Angeles, I do a lot of red carpet, special event, and photo shoot makeup.  At least 90% of my clients are still asking for that basic smoky eye. It seems like it will never go out of style.  And honestly, even though my clients all look different (different skin color, eye color, eye shape, etc.), I most always use the same colors, tools, and techniques to give them that sexy, smoky eye that they desire. This is one of the most important how-to’s you will ever read.  Here is how you can achieve that basic smoky eye that all the celebs are and will be rockin’ for years to come!

Step 1: Eye primers are a relatively new product, but once you start to use it and see the results, you will never forget to apply it again.  Your shadows will not only apply smoother, but will last all day and night. If you are a tranquil sleeper, you will wake up with your eyes still completely in tact and although, I wouldn’t make a habit of doing that, it is an interesting experiment. Apply a shadow primer, like Luminizing Eye Primer by Bodyography, all over the eyelids to prep the eyes for color application and encourage longer wear. * Tip: Also apply an eye cream under the eyes, like all-natural Rose Eye Cream from www.ClearandSmoothSkin.com to brighten, hydrate, and tighten fine lines.

Step 2: After your primer is blended smooth, use a natural hair lid brush, like the crease brush from www.Jordanessentials.com, to apply a soft iridescent, neutral eye shadow, such as www.HerbsofGrace.com loose mineral eye shadow in Oatstraw, to your entire eyelid and under the brow for highlight. Also, a good rule of thumb is ‘Everything you do on top, also do on the bottom.’ Taking this champagne color under the eye as well with the same brush will give the eye balance.  And don’t worry, you can’t mess this up.  You can really pile this natural base and highlight color on without over doing it.

Smoky Eye
Smoky Eye

Step 3: Just on the ball of the eye (where the eye protrudes), apply a mid tone shadow in a neutral plumy brown, like MAC Shadow in Haux. Use a smaller shadow brush, like Kevyn Aucoin’s Small Eyeshadow Brush, and apply color exactly on the lid, also taking the color lightly under the eyes again with the same brush. This will not only give the eye balance, but also add a little more drama. Apply lightly at first and add more as needed until you get your desired color and depth.

Step 4: Three things to remember when applying the dark crease color- be patient, be precise, and blend. This is the hardest part so allow yourself some time for this step. Lightly and softly begin to apply an opaque black color, like Herbs of Grace eye shadow in Nightshade, to form your smoky crease.  Use the natural hair crease brush, to obtain the cleanest application and smoothest blending. Using a more precise angle brush, like Jordan Essential’s Eye Liner Brush, also bring the darker shadow under the bottom lashes to emphasize that sexy dramatic look. Be careful this time not to over do the black color under the eyes. It’s really easy to accidentally give yourself those dreaded raccoon eyes with this dark color.

Step 5: Now we are on to the eye liner. I know this seems like a lot of steps, but once you have it down, you will be able to do it with your eyes closed and your hands tied behind your back (well one hand at least). I have said it before, and I will say it again, black gel liner is the greatest invention since, well, I don’t know what. It’s just fabulous and has transformed the look and application of the smoky eye. Using a smooth black gel liner, like Mac’s Creme Pot Smudge Proof Liner in Black, gently trace around the entire inside edges of your eyes (the water line). Retrace if needed for more intensity. Then apply the liner softly on the top lid as close to lash line as possible, directing the line upwards toward the end of the eye. Blend out with the angle brush angling upwards at the end of the eye creating that cat’s eye effect. Keep adding and blending the liner until you achieve to your desired smokiness and sexy cat eye. But be quick because once this liner dries, there is no moving it around.

False Eyelashes

Don’t forget to curl your lashes and apply a coat or three of lengthening and thickening mascara, like Jordan Cosmetics Black Fiber Mascara, www.anessentialyou.com Long, thick, fluffy lashes will perfect this smoky eye look. Just add a bit of sheer gloss and you will be red carpet ready!

Jenny KarlJenny Karl owns and runs Jenny Karl Hair and Makeup Agency based in Los Angeles. The agency has a highly trained team of hair and makeup artists, specializing in Airbrush Foundation, Print, Film, Television, Beauty, Fashion, Special Event, Mens and Ethnic hair and makeup

http://jennykarl.com/

8 Holiday Makeup Do’s & Don’t

1. Don’t be afraid to try something new. If you’re not one for makeup, this holiday season add a touch of gold or bronze to your bottom lash line for an easy, fun holiday look.

2. Don’t worry about that summer sweat anymore! Find a foundation that is right for you…and the season. During the winter don’t be afraid to put away the tinted moisturizer and try a more full coverage foundation for a flawless long lasting winter look.

3. Do keep a nude gloss and an Elf Eye liner pen in your purse for a quick day to night change.

4. Don’t hesitate to go for a bold lip! If you use a liner and matte lipstick combo your touch ups are going to be minimal! Gloss alone works great, but it makes touching up more frequent. (Favorite tip, after eating completely take off lipstick and reapply. It will last longer than trying to touch up what’s left!)

5. Do give your skin a gorgeous glow. Just because it’s the winter doesn’t mean you can’t look sun kissed! A touch of MAC’s Give Me Sun right below your cheekbones, as a contour gives the perfect finish.

6. It’s winter; DON’T worry about washing your hair every day. That’s why dry shampoo was invented. Suave Dry Shampoo is $3.49. Pick up a bottle and make Saturday night drinks with the girl’s hair last into Sunday’s brunch with the boyfriends parents!

7. Don’t forget to add a touch of color on your cheeks when going for a bold lip. You don’t want the lip to wash you out. Try a mauve for evening and baby pink for day time and it will really make your face pop!

8. And last, but certainly not least, don’t forget to moisturize!! From your skin to your lips, try Maybelline’s Baby Lips chapstick for the lips; and L’Occitane 25% Shea butter face cream for night and day. (If your skin is on the oilier side, try Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer.)

Elle Favorule is a Makeup Artist based in Los Angeles. Her celebrity clientele include Shannon Elizabeth, Kathy Baker, Jessica Lowndes, and Briana Evigan. Elle has traveled all over Europe doing makeup demonstrations and currently works on Film & Television.

artistry@ellefavorule.com

http://ellefavorule.com/

Top Fall Eye Shadow Palettes

From High to Low, if you’re looking for a stunning all in one eye shadow palette then here are a few of my favorite Fall picks.

Tom Ford’s Eye Shadow Quad in Sahara Haze $75.00 The Sahara Haze palette is impressive for not only its rich and interesting colour combination but also for its varied textures that blend and work perfectly together. Using the lighter neutrals shades like cream or pale gray on your lids, and reserving a swipe of khaki green for your crease. Stunning colors and of course as Tom Ford always does, stunning packaging!

Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill For in Effeto Nudo $59.00 Perfect palette for everyday use! These palettes are crafted based on Armani’s innovative ColorFil technology for intense true color (even with Matte eyeshadow). This palette 04 Effeto Nudo is “the” neutral palette.  This beige highlight works wonders for opening up the eyes and the  brown and taupe matte shades are great for contouring.  The palette consists of three matte colors so if you’re looking for shine this isn’t the palette for you.

Nars The American Dream $55.00 This eyeshadow palette houses six top-selling shades under one palette roof and proves to be the most versatile of the list. With three light ‘daytime’ shades and three darker ‘smokey’ shades, the range works into both day and night looks. Just add color Tzarine (bottom right) which is full of complex shimmer and adds a little glamour to your eye makeup.

E.L.F.’s Studio Eye Enhancing Shadow $6.00 Definitely a cheap thrill! This is E.L.F’s ‘Studio’ brand, known to carry much better items than the regular collection. A new item for them the palettes are available in six shade selections and house six eyeshadows each all intended to complement specific eye colors. I’m not the biggest fan of this coloring method as I think skin tone and hair color come into play here as well. However, the Brown Eyes 1 palette is a beautiful range and again, quite the steal at $6!

CoverGirl Eye Enhancers 4 Kit Eye Shadow, Pure Romance 235 $4.99 This quad has great everyday colors with a great highlighter all at the amazing price of $4.99 plus you can even find online coupons for CoverGirl and get a real beauty budget steal!

MAC Face & Body Pressed Pigments – in Warming Heart

I have loved the that almost wet eyelid look for years, and while I’ve tried the old vaseline trick, it always got messy. Until I met me these new Pressed Pigment’s by MAC. These super pigmented pearlescent shades deliver an unbelievably lustrous wet shine. But because they come in skin tone colors, the effect becomes soft and radiant when they melt into your skin. But proceed with caution, in no way is this meant to be an I’m-not-wearing-makeup look. But if that high gleam eye is what your after, these will deliver.  They can also be applied wet for added intensity. My personal favorite is Warming Heart for a soft peachy caramel color.

Now, while these were created for use all over the body, I would not recommend that. The only place I find them believable and not messy, is on the lid. And please, do not use them as a face highlighter, even if MAC seems to think this is a good idea. You will be disappointed at the overly glittery obvious shine! But if  a sexy, luminous, wet, shimmery eye look is your goal, go grab one of these colors fast.  They’re limited edition.

M·A·C PRESSED PIGMENT

  • Light Touch High pearl powder in w10
  • Warming Heart High pearl powder in NW20
  • Day Gleam High pearl powder in NC30
  • Spot Lit High pearl powder in NW35
  • Beaming High pearl powder in NC50
  • Deeply Dashing High pearl powder in NW55

Available for $21 at:

MAC

Nordstrom

Cheat Your Way To Sultry Smoky Eyes!

 

Smoky eyes were never so easy! But it really is cheating! A successful sultry eye takes a bit of time but this technique works beautifully in a pinch!

 

 

Grab a light eyeshadow (like Thi Cosmetics’s Fai, Mac’s Vanilla or Chanel’s Lotus) and apply a soft wash over the entire eye. Then with a pony tail brush, take a darker shadow (like Cover Girl’s Tapestry Taupe, Nars’s darker shade in the Cleo duo, or Chanel’s Fauve), and blend/ smoke it with a windshield wiper motion into the crease of the eye, slightly above the crease, and into the outermost corner.

 

 

The upper edges of the smoky darker eyeshadow might seem a bit jagged or unfinished. Not quite the effortlessly gradated look you were hoping for. But don’t despair. Grab your concealer brush, and take a swipe of your fave concealer (like Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage).

 

 

Trace over the eyeshadow edges you want to erase or blend out and then use you finger to pat out the concealer.

 

 

You will be left with a a perfectly contoured smoky eye in seconds! Great cheat for defined, stand out, sexy eyes! Try it! It works like a dream!

 

Eyeko Fat Eye Stick in Satin Taupe

Light up your eyes with this amazing chubby eyeliner from Eyeko. Flattering on any skintone, the sheen it imparts on eyes is a show stopper. The fawn like color and smooth glossy application, will leave your eyes looking  luminous and well rested!

I also love the surprise retractable twist up applicator. It couldn’t be easier to take your eye makeup from a vibrant opaque finish, all the way to an ethereal sheer wash of color. You can also use this creamy stick to line your eyes,  with a cat eye flick at the ends, or use your fingers to smudge it on. So many liners claim to be bendable, but they require a game of tug of war on your delicate lids. This highly pigmented cream melts right in, staying malleable enough to get the color where you want it, while miraculously lasting for hours. But for best results, primer first is always the way to go for creaseless staying power.

But my favorite easiest, goof proof way to use it? Take a swipe or two over each lid, from the lash line to the crease or just a hint above the crease. Then grab your fluffy ponytail brush and with a windshield wiper motion, blend it out. Voila! Your eyes will instantly look bigger, brighter and beautifully defined. Smoky eyes in truly seconds.

Here’s a list of all their beautiful colors:

Available for $15 at:

 

(After writing this review, I discovered it’s become nearly impossible to find it in the States. London anyone?)

Too Faced Naked Eye Palette

This is my favorite neutral collection of eyeshadows ever! One eyeshadow kit with nine colors for all occasions. It even comes with handy How-To-Cards built into the case. Too Faced has made it too easy to not reach for it day and night!

Want a subtle I’m-not-wearing-eye-makeup look? This palette is it! Want a super dramatic smoldering look? This palette is it! A perfect combo of soft matte and shimmery colors, that are effortlessly blendable and buildable. Unlike many other eyeshadow brands, you won’t end up with stray powder smudged all over your face. Nor will you look like you never put on eyeshadow a couple of hours later. These pure pigmented shades resist fading and stays in place for hours. The is your all-in-one palette that is a cinch for beginners and handy for pros. And there is no animal-testing.

Too Faced’s Naked Eye Palette will become a staple in your beauty arsenal.

Shades:

In The Buff (matte ivory), Pillow Talk (light taupe sheen), Like A Virgin (matte taupe), Birthday Suit (beige shimmer), Satin Sheets (golden champagne shimmer), Unmentionables (steel gray shimmer), Pink Cheeks (pale pink), Lap Dance (silvery taupe shimmer), and Stiletto (matte black).

Ingredients:

In the Buff, Unmentionables & Lap Dance: Talc, Zinc Stearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Kaolin, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Silica, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Tin Oxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Mica, Carmine (CI 75470). (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Ultramarines (CI 77007).Pillow Talk, Like a Virgin, Birthday Suit & Pink Cheeks: Talc, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Methicone, Mica. (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Ultramarines (CI 77007). Satin Sheets: Talc, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Stearate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Mica, Carmine (CI 75470), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Manganese Violet (CI 77742). Stiletto: Talc, Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77499), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Carmine (CI 75470), Manganese Violet (CI 77742).

Available for $36 at:

Sephora

Ulta

Too Faced

Sunday Riley Eye Shadow in Solstice

Sunday Riley Eye Shadow in Solstice

My skincare and makeup products look like Noah’s Arc. While I am product faithful, I’m not necessarily brand faithful.  I find gems in many various lines. But I must confess, Sunday Riley is throwing in an expensive monkey wrench. In fact, I think I’m developing a serious habit, much to my pocketbook’s dismay. I’ve already raved about Sunday Riley’s line, starting with Juno when my beauty partner, Jac and I first started Glow+Tell. Let alone my obsession  with Good Genes. Then there are the dream products I have yet to review: Bionic, the Creme Cleanser, the Primer (reviews to come). But let’s talk makeup. Sunday Riley’s makeup line is delicious, with one of my faves being her eye shadow, Solstice.

The color is a delicious cranberry that is just the right mix of satin and shimmer.  Great as a lid color but exceptional in the crease. This shade warms up the eyes, adding a sunkissed glow. For added depth and dimension, add Solstice to a smoky eye! Highly pigmented yet easily buildable, the soft texture makes application a breeze.. This versatile radiant color is a must!

From the Sunday Riley  site:

Multi-functional wet and dry formula can be used as a traditional eyeshadow or as a precision eye liner. This ultra-fine, long-wear formulation is air-milled for exquisite texture and rich, stay-true color. Micronized spherical pigment particles impart effortless blendability and instantly satisfying color payoff. Offered in a range of finishes, from matte to satin to illuminating shimmers. Paraben Free.

Available for $26 at:

MakeUp Artist Jenny Karl Shares 2 Hot Summer Eye Shadow Trends

A great look for summer is a golden eye or any kind of splash of metallic shimmering color around the eye.  However, the gold family is really hitting the runway this season.  A fresh neutral face is needed with this look with very light eyeliner.  Unfortunately, it seems that those dramatic cat eyes are out…for now:(  For the gold accent, use an angle brush and add it to the upper and lower inside corners of the eye.  Add color little by little until you get your desired color and shimmer!  I suggest either a nude glossy lip with this look or for more drama, the classic red lip will always be in style!

To achieve this look, try MAC Woodwinked.

Spice up your summer party look with an aqua accent on your eyes! Glamify your makeup with a pop of color in the corners or under the eyes to go from ordinary to extraordinary.  This season brings lots of color…specifically teals, blues, greens, and bright and sparkly aquas.  Gennifer Goodwin rocked this sparkly Caribbean sea color on her eyes in a recent red carpet event. And you can too, by adding your favorite fun shade to brighten up your very own beautiful sparking eyes!

For this look, try MAC Aquadisiac,  applied with damp or dry angle brush.

Our Special Guest, Jenny Karl owns and runs Jenny Karl Hair and Makeup Agency based in Los Angeles. She also hosts a makeup how-to series for EHow.com and is the LA trainer for numerous cosmetics lines.

www.jennykarl.com